Do you remember, in 2003, when the House wanted to call French fries “freedom fries” instead? Yeah, I thought that was a really dumb idea too. While “freedom fries” were making headlines here in the States, Raphael Monnanteuil was testing the market with his new clothing line, dubbed “XL Ant.”

The name came from a trip that he took to the US many years before. During a conversation that he was having, he heard someone use the word “excellent”. In his creatively twisted mind, the first thing that he thought of was “extra large ant,” and thus the name was born! This is when Raphael finally starts to think about putting his ideas of making a clothing line into action.

After quickly selling out of his first 200 t-shirts in the spring of 2003, he makes more shirts & holds a big party called “XL Ant Night.” Instead of just 100 people, over 400 curious folks show up and have a damn good time! After the success of that party, and the connections made there, the brand became official in December of 2003.

2004 was quite a successful year for the brand. Stores all over France have a hard time keeping XL Ant designs in stock, helping to create even more of a buzz in the local fashion market. Kick ass bands like the UK’s Muse and Placebo start to wear the line’s shirts on-stage, along with Pascal Obispo’s drummer, Christophe Deschamps. Two big names in the 1^st ever French soccer league start to wear the brand’s shirts in their off-time; one of the guys, Sebastien Chabbert, even becomes the male face for the brand (big score). Last but not least, XL Ant was featured on major French TV channels, such as M6 and Canal +, informing any locals that have been living under a rock about the goodness that is XL Ant.

As sales continue to grow, Raphael comes up with new, provocative topics for each collection that makes the brand all the more exciting to keep tabs on. Now, peer into the mind of this driven designer to find out what is next … make sure to leave out the part about the “freedom fries” though; it’s so 2003.

Did you feel there was a hole in the fashion community that XL Ant could fill?

I don’t really think so; I think that there is [a] place for every one of us.

Do you design for a certain age group?

I design first for people of my generation (I’m 34), but the best way to be is open-minded. In music, I’m very open-minded, even if my culture is very rock [‘n roll], so it means that I love a lot of bands and when I love, there is no compromise.

Are there any bands on genres in particular that inspire the line?

You know, it’s very hard to be inspired by music because bands are so different on stage. I mean, some like to wear natural clothes and some need to be in a suit. To tell the truth, I’m not paying any attention on what someone is wearing or not. The thing is that XL Ant is much more than a brand; it’s more like a lifestyle, a concept. I try, every season, to have a [different] direction on the collection. This winter, for example, is the “Soviet Union” [collection]. One of the major points with XL Ant is that I love word games and provocation, so you can see that some of the products have a message. [XL Ant’s message speaks] to only one part of the population; not everybody has a rock ‘n roll attitude.

How did you decide to do the Soviet Union designs for this season? What inspired that?

Last summer’s [collection was the] USA from the 1950’s to 1970’s; I just though that USSR should be the next. I already had some vision of what it could be, which was a good idea because as you can see in shops, USSR is the inspiration of the winter.

Do you pay attention to the runways & high fashion at all?

Let’s say that I love fashion and I’m always paying attention to what’s going on. I’m not a fashion designer; I don’t have this pretension. I’m more a “creative communicator,” so I have nothing to do with those great [designers] like Jean Paul Gaultier or [Vivienne] Westwood.

Are there any designers that you’d love to collaborate with?

[Jean Paul Gaultier or Vivienne Westwood] because they are out of time; they are trash; they give such an over-direction to the fashion business.

Are there any plans to expand the line in the future? Currently, you design t-shirts & sweatshirts; any plans for bags, shoes, jeans, or other items?

Oh yes, but one [at a time]. I designed the first dress this winter, which has been a real success. Next summer will be similar to this one in terms of products, but jeans and shoes should come in 2 or 3 more seasons. I have to work with some other people for that because I don’t have much experience [with jeans or shoes]. One thing [for] sure is that I already know the slogan of [our] shoes.

Are you willing to reveal it?

Not now, but with a little bit of lucidity, you could find it easily.

Oohhh, tempting! Who would you love to see wearing your designs?

In the music world I’m lucky [because] Muse and Placebo are already wearing them. I’m now listening to the last Foo Fighters [album] and I really love those guys; I wish I could meet them.

Speaking of that, how did you get connected with UK band Muse?

I used to work as a tour manager, and on one of my tours with a great American band, Big Soul, I met the guys from Muse. XL Ant [did] not exist [yet], but I had my ideas about it. I just asked them if they would wear my products if I had a brand. They answered, “Of course, if we love them”. [Once] the brand was out, I just called them to present some of the products [to them] during their European tour. Chris, the bassist, took some [shirts] and started to wear them. We are often in touch now and when I have stuff that I think they will like, I just send [it to] them.

How did you hook up with Placebo?

Placebo is a [whole other] story! I was backstage during one of their show, [but] I had no time to stay. I asked their bus driver if he would be nice enough to give them a package. He said yes, but to tell you the truth, I was not sure that he would [really] do it. A few months later, a friend of mine said. “I didn’t know you gave Placebo some stuff!” I asked him how he knew that, and he said that he saw one of the guy’s wearing one of my t-shirts on-stage in the video he made. I had a look at [the tape] and it was true. Unfortunately, I haven’t had the opportunity to meet them since that time, but it will probably come.

Your designs have also been seen on some major players in the French soccer league; how did that come about?

Easy in fact; Sebastien Chabbert, who is the Lens goalkeeper, is the model for the male collection [on our website]. I met him [through] a friend we have in common. He became a really good friend and introduced me to a lot of soccer players. New guys are going [to be] wearing XL Ant t-shirts very soon.

After reading this article, people in the States are going to want to check out your designs; when & where will they be available in the US?

Soon, I hope! In a few weeks, you will have the [ability] to buy from the web site, but only [a few] products like the “classic” or the “flaming”. We are working on [distribution in] 10 European countries for next winter, then USA will probably come soon [after that].

Anything else that you would like say to your new fans in the States?

I love USA a lot; I spend so much time out there. I crossed the US from West to East, and North to South. [So far], I’ve visited 37 different states, and met some nice people. Maybe, one day, I’ll live there. [Last, but not least], life is XL Ant.

[Scans can be seen here]